BHAU CHACHU DA BIAH

          Now, that I was almost under five, and  have had started recognizing people around me,  I faintly remember, Dadaji sometimes, used to pat on my cheeks with an affectionate smile, and also gave me plenty of kishmish in return which I could hardly hold in my small hands at a time.  My very early life's first big family function or an event came i.e. 'Bhau Chachue da Biyah'. 

         Well before the marriage ceremony, the entire house was cleaned, repaired, cow dung pasted, white washed, painted and decorated with colorful designed cut guddi paper flaggies.  Track leading to  Manjhol House from Hattian,  was neatly cleaned, widened and decorated.  Visits of neighborhood women to our house had also increased.  Lots of other arrangements were being made.  A makeshift kitchen area was erected in the Lahri (Kitchen Garden) for preparation of Dhaam. 

         Guests from far and near had started pouring in.  All the Buas' along with their families had already come.  During nights, ladies used to sing wedding songs and dance till late nights.  There was all-round hustle-bustle in the house and my Dadi could be seen giving instructions to everyone.  My big brothers and sisters were also assisting in whatever work they were given.  Kitne dino se mein bhi bilkul nahi roya.  I was feeling too happy and overjoyed!

        It was, perhaps, November, 1948.  Marriage day came and final function  celebrations began.  After 'Butna' (Haldi) and 'Tel-Saand' functions, Chachu was brought out for taking bath in the middle of our house angan surrounded by all the village guests, gharatis and children in their best attires, Then, after bath, Chachu changed new special clothes made for the occasion.

          A long achken with chooridar and 'made to order' tilledar glittering jutti, made Chachu look like a Duleh Raja.  A light pink safa with glittering sehra tied around it, made Chachu Dulah of the year! Even today, I vividly remember that my Pitaji took me along in Chachu's baraat to village Suliali for three days.  I still remember that there were lot of relatives and local people in the baraat. 

         The baraat left Ladori before noon.  Few ponies also accompanied the baraat for carriage of beddings and other luggage.  I was only a small kid in the baraat and almost everyone tried to fondle with me.  I was so happy and joyous in accompanying  the baraat that I knew no bounds of my happiness.  I was, perhaps, like an apple of the eyes of all! 

         Duleh Chachu made me sit in his lap on a white horse which was so sturdy and high, beautifully decorated with floral sheets, embroidered pads and fresh flower garlands.  When the baraat was about to move, or one can say that more than half of the baaraties were already out of sight, the Duleh Raja's horse would not move until it ate  bowlful of soaked chana dal!

        I was wearing my new Kurtu-Suthnu and multi-coloured sweater woven by Amma out of different colors, shades and types of left over wool lying in the house, as a trash for so long.  I also wore floral designed printed canvas boots and a dark brown glitter embroidered serge hard gol topi.  A small silken scarf was tied around my neck with kajal in the eyes.  A synthetic flower haar, longer than  my body size, attracted many towards me amazingly!

         On reaching Suliali in the evening, the baraat  was led to a community hall where all arrangements for the stay of baraat were made.  Tea and refreshments were served on arrival of the baraat.  I enjoyed the refreshment and drank milk which was specially brought in for me, from Chachi's house.  Then the baraat was requested by the hosts to come for Milni ceremony at an open common place  between the community hall and the house of the hosts.

         This time I was again asked by my Pitaji to sit in the Chachu's lap on the horse.  Some elderly people embraced with each other and exchanged sweets and gifts. It was dinner time at Chachi's house and the baraat reached at their main entrance with Duleh Raja  and myself sitting on the horse. My tilledar gol topi was shining in the bright petromax light.  

        Within few minutes, all were entering into the main gate to occupy their seats for dinner sitting on the mats spread on the ground.  As soon as I tried to sit on the mat along with my Pitaji, few big girls came near me and started teasing me.  They asked my name time and again and also inquired about my gol topi and scarf. 

         They then almost dragged me against my wishes and took me to a room inside the house where Dulhan (Chachi) was sitting surrounded by many young girls and women.  I was pushed into the lap of Chachi who held me with her hands and embraced and hugged me and tried to talk to me.  But I was insisting to go outside.

          I was caught hold by many girls who pulled and pushed me from all sides.  One of them so dared that she hugged and kissed me.  I was about to cry when someone from outside came in searching for me.  I took a sigh of relief! The baraat stayed in Suliali for two nights.  It was all fun for me each time, when the baraat went to Chachi's house for breakfast, lunch and dinner. 

         As it was my first ever outdoor visit, that too, with a baraat,, I felt myself on the top of the world.  Even today, I remember that when the baraat went to Chachi's house for lunch (Brahm Bhoj), I ate plenty of sweets to my fill and also brought home lot of sweets tied in an handkerchief.

         Pragya Chachi had come to Ladori and became a member of Manjhol Kutumb..  Chachu-Chachi were very happy ever after.  They both loved me so much and used to give me Boor or Machalies every now and then.  I used to go to their room, as and when I liked!

        Now that, at this stage of my life, may be I am turned 78, the sweet memories of the love and affection received by me from the dear departed ones, specially Chachi Maa Pragya in this case, are still fresh in me upholding their deep respect and regard, in the highest esteem!!

                                         MYSELF - UNDER TWO YEARS OLD

         In summers, during the months of June-July, in mango season, all bua's families used to come to Ladori. This time too, all had come to Ladori to enjoy varieties of desi mangoes available in the village. Only Fufa Vasdev from Chabhkhra  Murada had not yet arrived. My amma had made me sit at the varanda near the main entrance of the Manjhol House. Suddenly, I saw a person entering into our house and walked along my side, where I was sitting waiting for amma to come, and take me for bath. In the meantime, I thought I must enquire about this man and said:-

       Me:   "Oye, idhar dekh"

       He:   "Kaun hai?"

       Me:   Me, ha ha ha. This is me, Amrtu......Amrit Lal!

       He:   "Kaun Amrit Lal, tu toh Fauku hai"

       Me:   Ni, mein Amrit Lal hun, my Dadu gave me this name. Isn"t it beautiful name?"

       He:   "Yes, indeed! said Fufa Vasdev


       I am the smallest of all children in the house.  I am under two.  Everyone in the house call me Fauku.  They say I always cry, cry and cry all day long!  That is why they have nick-named me Fauku because, they say, yeh larka har waqt rota rehta hai.  Jab dekho Feh...Feh...Feh.  crying like a hungry fox.  Actually, my name is Amrit Lal, mind it.

       I am sitting here on the varanda of my Dadu's house at Ladori, all alone!  Amma made me sit here to give me bath but she left me here and gone away.  Now she might be busy with some other household chores and forgot about me.  I pee here, I am wet, dirty, smelly and my whole body is smeared in dirt.  I am stinking badly.  My hair is entangled, sticky, unkempt and clumsy. 

        My big brothers and sisters in the house like Didi Swarno (Dano Chachi's), Ladori, Rajjan (Manglo Bua's), Chabkhra, Tamba (Soma Bua's), Dah, Chiru (Soma Bua's), Dah and Bhiya Ram Rattan (Taro Bua's), Gangath, Gorkhu (Taro Bua's), Gangath, Deep (Manglo Bua's), Chabkhra, Rattan (Manglow Bua's), Chabkhra, Raju (Dano Chachi's), Ladori, Ram, my elder bro.  None of them picking me up.  They are making mouth and shrinking nose at me and also teasing me while making noisy terrible sounds!

       I am crying for the last one hour.  I am crying very loudly but no one is ready to listen.  My throat has started paining.  They all say that I have nothing to do but weeping all day.  What do I do.  No one loves me.  Only my Dadi loves me very much but she is also no where to be seen around today.  She must have gone on village round as usual.

       This is how I live here and being treated always like this.  I am being brought up in an environment of poverty, paucity, backwardness, under miserable and unhygienic living conditions prevalent in the village in 1946 era!

       There are some ants that have started pinching me at my bottom.  Clouds of home flies can be seen buzzing around and sitting all over me.  There are two crows that are trying to come near me.  I am very much afraid.  I am unable to call help as I am too small. I can only cry and cry loudly in which I am perfect, as they all say.  My small mouth gets open wide to the last extent showing hanging tip in my throat and my upper front two small teeth, which have not yet fully grown. Now I am feeling tired and sleepy.  I may fall flat on my back any moment and go to sleep on the litter scattered on the varanda's floor.  I have gone to sleep really!  Amma is not coming, no bath!

       Quite sometime later, I woke up and found myself lying on a small, partially broken and unsteady small cot, wrapped in a torn but clean rag.  The difference, this time, is only that now I look a bit clean with a washed frock on, and of course, kajal in the eyes and a spot on the left hand side on the forehead.  Now again, I am feeling hungry and need sucking milk.  I hope someone come in and take me out to Amma in the court yard and also show me cows, calves, sparrows and squirrels! 

       My big brothers and sisters have come to me and start fighting among themselves in order to snatch me from one another and in the melee, they sometimes dropped me down on the floor and no one is ready to accept their mistake.  I, then start crying again at the highest pitch and the sound of my cries reaches in the neighborhood.  My neighbourer are quite familiar of my cries and they say that I always keep crying whole day long.  They say that I always keep crying without any reason!

       Let me tell you the truth and genuine reason why I generally remain crying, that hardly anyone in the house know.  Bigger children always keep dragging me from here to there.  Jab unka dil karta hai, mujhe ghaseetate rehte hain, uthate hain aur jab dil karta hai, mujhe wahin par patak dete hain aur rota hua chhorkar bhag jate hain.  Then what I do except weeping?  I am being brought up this way and also think that this trend is likely to continue for ever until I grow bigger and take care of myself

       My Buas' love me very much but, at times, they also shout at me and say that "Jab dekho tab yeh larka fekta rehta hai Fae...Fae...Fae like a hungry fox.  Therefore, they also named me Fauku and started calling me so.  Now all big children call me Fauku and tease me except my Manglo Bua and sisters Swarno and Rajjan who love me so much and hold me always and never call me Fauku. I do not like to be called by this nick name. I am Amrit Lal.  My Dadu gave me this beautiful name!  This way, days, months and years gone by and I also kept on growing big and bigger and a bit taller.  Walking, talking, running and also crying is all my pastime..

       Not to talk of my nick name alone, there had been a long time practice in the Manjhol Kutumb and the families closely connected with it, to keep Ajab-Ghajab nicknames of children.  I may take you all in the time space of 60-70 years back introducing you afresh with the nick-names of both the sides of Manjhol Kutumb i.e. own side and Buas' side.  You know their original names, I may leave it to you to guess :-

Manjhol Parivar

Rukko, Chanda, Kisso, Udho, Chakra, Bhau
Baddi, Dano, Lilo, Bhagwati, Pragya
Gard,Swarno, Chiru
Fauku,Mandri, Raman, Kaku, Nikka
Luru, Chuie, Guddu, Guddi
Mundu, Gopa
Chochlu,Ghoga, Shungad, Manjul


Buas'


Taro,Nanak,Bantu, Gorkhu, Sattu, Duff, Bounu, Makodi, Bobo
Soma,, Daulat, Thappo, Tamba, Chiru, Darshan, Khukhar, Kuttu
Manglo, Vasdev, Rajjan, Deep, Rattan, Paishan, Kaka, Ruggal Veeru, Guddu, Bholi
Sarvato, Bhagwant, Ashu, Kuka
Ramkali,Hanso, Shiv, Ghoga, Ghik, Billu

           

                                      MY DREAM PROJECT FOR VILLAGE LADORI

  Ever since I became a youngster, I have cherished a desire to see my village Ladori  becoming a Smart Village and model to others, where its people live happily, in peace and harmony with every required facility at their door steps and also where illiteracy and misery would be the things of the past.

       Right from Sadhramaan at Nurpur up to Jhodan at Ladori, an extensive plantation drive should be approved and work undertaken shortly by the local forest department. About five lakh saplings of chir trees are proposed to be planted all along the Nurpur-Hindora Gharat-Ladori road and adjoining hillocks.  The forest cover thus developed would help controlling environmental de-gradation, soil erosion and creating nature friendly, cool breezy ambience on the route and providing shelter to various kinds of birds and native wildlife.  Passing through the shade of sturdy and upright chir trees on both sides of the road would be an enchanting experience.  More and more people from outside world would be attracted for a pleasure trip to planned and model smart village.  Forestation in and around Ladori should also be undertaken on war footing.  Apart from usual Peepal, Barr, Simble, Sheesham and mango trees, about two lakh saplings of Khair, Hard, Bhera, Amla, Mahua  and Reetha trees are to be planted in the first phase in the available vacant shamlaat land in the village as well as  on the barren forest land.

       A Government Wood and Food Bank has been proposed by me to be instituted under an act of the Government which would be located in Chikla Maira and would function direct under the Gram Panchayat.  The main functions of this bank would include management, upkeep and safety of forests, collection, storage and disposal of jungle produce and maintenance of wildlife within its jurisdiction and carry out trading of finished wood and jungle produce and also cater to the needs of local inhabitants of the area under the terms and conditions similar to popular Government Public Distribution System.

       A Botanic Garden spreading over an area of ten kilometers may be be developed in the village.  It will cover the area from Lehra down to Gosain-da-Bagh and up to Domel covering hillocks on both sides of Jabbar Khad.  This Botanic Garden will house mainly native chir trees and other various kinds of hard found medicinal plants  that will come up at Gosain-da-Bagh in Khadyater Meadow.  Saplings of these  plants would be grown here.  Besides fruit bearing trees like Pear, Orange, Peach, Plums, Mangoes,  Grapes, Litichees, etc. etc. Plantation of trees of green nutritious fodder like Dhamman, Kachnaar and Sarinh etc. should be encouraged.

       Pastures of nutritious wild green grass should also be earmarked and maintained at the upper reaches.  Growing of various kinds of  shrubs of medicinal value like Ashwagandha, Atees, Bhumi Amlaki,  Brahmi, Chirata, Gudmar, Jatamasi, Kuth, Kutki, Makoy, Musali, Pushkamool, Sarpgandha, Shatavsn, Vai Vidang, Vatsnabh, Palas, Amaltash etc. and popular varieties of export quality flowers and vegetables like Onions, Tomatoes, Capsicum, Cabbage, Carrots, Spinach, Reddish, Brinjals, Beans, Garlic and Cucumber should be other attractions here.

       About 1000 boxes of honey-bee are proposed to be installed in this garden initially under the supervision of Government Bee Keeping Department.  Thus about 5000 Kgs of fresh golden honey is likely to be harvested annually.  Apart from bulk supplies to major pharmaceutical companies, marketing and trading of garden produce such as hard, behra, amla, reetha, lemen and mahua will be looked after by the village Co-operative Society.

       A Research Laboratory and an Ayurvedic Hospital at Lehra equipped with state-of-the art equipment and technology with qualified research scientists and doctors will carry out research work in Ayurveda and promote plantation of more and more species of medicinal plants.  Ayurvedic Hospital will provide free medical care to the people.  A website of the garden/hospital will help in promoting the growth of medicinal and rare species of all plants.

       A road connecting Ladori-Danni-Mullkuwal  with a bridge over Upli Jabbar at Dasuin-da-Gharat, would facilitate free flow of vehicular traffic through the village right up to Chowari,  Chamba and other parts of Himachal Pradesh, thereby re-opening the gates of old charms of pony tracks that existed in the past.  On completion of this project, it would definitely help open up business opportunities for the people of the area.

       Another road connecting Ladori-Oder-Danni-Mehraka with a bridge over deep gorge of Jabbar Khad at Hattian on one side, and Oder on the other, would throw open many avenues of petty businesses and low-key tourism.  This Hi-Fi bridge would be an attraction for people from outside and a source of thrill and joy for people of all ages while crossing over it!

       A small bundh of moderate capacity on Upli Jabbar Khad at the 'slip rock' near the Shiv Mandir and Arjuna Tree,  and at Jhodan on the 'Chroori rock', are proposed to be constructed from where water could be lifted and stored at Lehra and Upla Maira respectively  for irrigation purposes at Upla Maira, Jharnui, Darkali, Chikla Maira and Ghaluin areas which will enable local farmers to reap timely and rich harvests and to take maximum benefit of the irrigation facilities thus provided.

       Demolition of old and dilapidated kucha Primary and Senior Secondary School buildings should be considered as these have outlived their utility and  approval for construction of new school buildings should be approved. These schools will be provided with Laboratories, Technical Workshops, latest sports equipment and trained coaches.  A Central Library may also be opened at Senior Secondary School, Ladori.

       Baradari building at Mandi is also proposed to be demolished and new building comprising a large hall and multiple rooms be constructed at its original site.  Well furnished in all respects, this building would be known as New Baradari where all kinds of modern facilities like Library-Cum-Newspaper Room, Table Tennis Room, Gymnasium, Swimming Pool, Yoga and Dhyana Kendra, TV Room, Computer Room with telephone, e-mail and internet or Wi-Fi facilities and a Caffe will be made available to the residents.

     MODERN SHOPPING COMPLEX IN HATTIAN

  

A Modern Shopping Complex may come up in Hattian in place of haphazardly built up small shops, having all requisite facilities.  The shops will be given to the original owners on subsidized rates.  Educated unemployed village youth will be given priority for allotment of shops in the shopping complex.  A local Market Committee will be formed, which will be responsible for day-to-day management of shopping complex and will deal with the matters relating to occupancy rentals, commodity rates, customer welfare and accounts including attending to various other administrative jobs.

       All permanent residents who are residing in the village for over100 years will be provided House Building Loan ranging from rupees five lakhs to ten lakhs on zero percent interest for re-construction of their old houses according to laid down building bye-laws.  This loan will be returnable within next twenty years' time on easy instalments.

       No family will be allowed to keep any type of animals like cow, buffalo, oxen, goats, sheep and poultry except for pets.  All these animals will be centrally located in an organized Cattle Farm outside the village.  This Farm will be managed by a Milk Co-operative Society manly run by women of the village.

       All streets of the village will be widened, metaled and provided with proper storm water drainage system.  Efficient street lighting will be provided for security purposes  and to allow free and easy movement of residents during late  nights.  Each house will be connected with the sewerage system and motorable  streets up to door steps.  Flawless underground water and electricity supply will be ensured at all times.

       A Three Star Hotel, another Modern Shopping Complex, a Mini Industrial Area, a Forest Research Laboratory and a Residential Colony should be planned east of Kyara, near Kyara Talaab at the foot of Chhoti Dhar by the side of Dhole-da-Naal.

       Kyara Talaab will be de-silted, deepened, widened and re-constructed with a view to make it a tourist attraction surrounded by a lush green park with coffee house located at an appropriate point.

       Atte-da-Bagh would be developed as  a Picnic-Cum-Recreational Park.  Apart from Merry-go-Round and a Giant Wheel, which would be the main attraction of the park,  well equipped Gymnasium will also be made available for the youth to keep fit.  Besides, a Novelty Shop and a Night Club will also be opened for the entertainment of both young and elderly people.  The revenue so generated from the picnic spot, will be utilized for further development and maintenance of the Park.

       A Petrol Pump suitably located at Upla Maira with a mechanical workshop where all kinds of vehicles could be serviced, repaired and petrol and diesel is made available round the clock.  Present Government Dispensary may be upgraded to 20 beds hospital which will provide, apart from normal outdoor medical cover, specialized treatment to the needy and attend to emergent cases.

       Vet Hospital at Ladori be upgraded and should be headed by a Surgeon. A College and a Polytechnic is proposed at Darkali, Cold Storage at Jharnuin, Cattle and Sheep Breeding Farm at Khadyater, Sports School with a Stadium in Chikla Maira are the other likely proposals. These proposals should be sent to the State Government for their immediate  and active consideration. 

       Naun and Naaru will be given a face lift.  At both the points, beautiful parks will be developed. Separate bathrooms and rain shelters will be constructed both for Kings and Queens.  Particular attention will be paid to the cleanliness and upkeep of the environment around these two important watery spots. All old winding tracks leading to and from Jabbar Khad, Naaru and Naun and other places in the village would be completely replaced by paved pathways keeping in view easy and comfortable up and down hill walk.

    

       

                                                         PLEASING RAIN GOD

       Another religious event, which was almost a regular feature, was that whenever there were delayed or no rains for an abnormally longer period and consequent emergence of drought threat, residents would get together at the Shiva Temple situated in Upli Jabbar under a huge and centuries old Arjuna Tree, on a fixed day and Rudra Mahajagna was arranged  where five holy priests along with few most senior residents and head of the village chanted hymns to the deity while pouring oblations of ghee, saturated barley and black sesame seeds into a large sacrificial square of  holy fire.  This ritual was performed from morning till evening for the well being of all and at the same time to please Lord Shiva and the rain god.

       A large quantity of high quality sizzling hot Karah Prashad was distributed to the gathering after the completion of the yagna and the Aarti.  People, mostly women came to listen to the stories from the  puranas and Srimad Bhagwat Gita on creation of harmony in life and following values given by our ancestors.

       While yagna was going on, people including school children made a bee -line in a circular chain from the temple premises downwards to the river along with whatever types of pots they could lay their hands on, for fetching river water.  This was then poured on the Shivlingam inside the temple while blocking the outlet from inside, until the Shivlingam was, completely immersed in to the river water.

       During this process, a miracle would happen to the pleasant surprise to everyone.  The sky would start overcasting slowly from all sides.  The water so collected in the temple room is then released with great fanfare amidst chanting of hymns in praise of rain god.  As soon as the released water gushing downwards meets with the main water channel of Jabbar Khad, wind storm of low intensity would start followed by drizzling and steadily changing into heavy rains.

       While the process of Rudra Mahayagna and immersing of Shivlingam   was on, a community langar (Jag) was also arranged on a very large scale on the opposite side of Shiva Temple on the bank of Jabbar Khad in Atte-da-Bagh.  People gathered there would be completely drenched while eating, sitting on the ground in long rows and dust storm took their pattals and donas away with it.  However,  on settling down after a short while, eating by the people would go on until late evening.  That was the moment which the residents of the area cherished for long!  Dancing, shouting  at high pitch and doing all sorts of merry-making, they spread the wave of happiness all around to welcome the long awaited rains, which no one is ready to accept as the effect of meteorological combination and calculations.

       In this temple complex, another Hanuman Mandir which was constructed by Chhaju Sunaar, is worth visiting in solitude.  In the immediate vicinity of this Mandir, is yet another large sized Hanuman image artistically carved out on the rock by Arun Sharma, the writer's youngest brother.  It is an excellent piece of  sculptor and is appreciated by one and all.

       In the peaceful environment, under the cool shade of Arjuna Tree, one may find here rare solitude and tranquility for a while!

                                          COSMIC FIASCO OF ASHATGRAH

   Yet another big religious event that Ladori had to undertake in the year 1962 was to pacify the wrath of cosmos and destruction of earth by high energy radiations from the outer space.

       Akhand Bhajan-Kirtan continuously for two months at Dharamshala in Hattian followed by a large scale Yagna which was solemnized in the lawns of Hanumar Shiv Doala situated at Hattian under a huge Peepal tree, between the tracks leading to Mandi and Upli Jabbar that lasted for a week where quintals of havan samagri, firewood (Samvidha) and plenty of pure ghee was used by eleven priests at a stretch, day and night, in order to pacify the wrath of infamous cosmic fiasco of Ashtagraha when eight planets were in conjunction with Capricorn and every Indian astrologer proclaimed that life on earth would end at 5.35 PM on February, 3, 1962.
   
       In order to escape from the predicted calamity, The life came to stand still, buses, trains and planes went empty.  Schools, colleges and offices were closed.  Ghee worth crores of rupees went up in smoke of sacrificial fires to appease the gods in full length and breadth of the country.  However, by the grace of God, nothing happened and people took a sigh of relief.

       Ladori was also not behind in following rest of  country and in pleasing the gods which shows deep religious mindedness of the residents of Ladori.

       In the present times, however, it can generally be observed that drastic change has taken place in religious thinking of the people with their attitudinal change brought about by the rapid socioeconomic status of the people.  It is evidently clear that money power, trickling of western culture into the remotest corners of the country.  Computers, laptops, mobile phones, internet culture and craze for so called false social status have taken precedence  over the religious chores of the common people.  However, belief in gods is still deep rooted and not likely to be over shadowed!

                      BRAHMINS OF LADORI AND THE MANJHOL KUTUMB

        Brahmins of Ladori belong to different gotras and sub-castes.  This is perhaps because they came to this village from different cultures and regions at different times.  It is only because of this, that they can solemnize  the marriages of their children within the community.  First ever such marriage was solemnized when Bhatianwale married off their daughter to a boy belonging to Manjhol Kutumb..

       Bhatianwale came to Kangra District from Kashmir during latter part of 19th century and after having lived  for a short duration at Bhatti Chak near Dina Nagar, District Gurdaspur, Punjab, they finally came to Ladori.  Having come from Village Bhatti Chak, they were later known to be as Bhatianwale.  Nanku, Jai Karan, Prakashu and Mahant of Bhatianwale Khandan lived their full lives in Ladori.  Subhash Chand, Som Dutt and Daya Nand are the descendants of Bhatianwale family.

      Subhash Chand presently lives in Mumbai, who along with his son Dinesh looks after the management of his two Engineering Works manufacturing auto parts in Mumbai and Nasik.  His youngest daughter Sunita lives in Panipat along with her charming husband Arun.  She is serving as a science teacher in one of the leading Public Schools in Panipat.  She never misses me at Rakhi and Tikka during festivities.  Som Dutt and Daya Nand are retired officials of Education and Revenue Departments respectively.  Leela, a good old lady and wife of Dadu Mahant was highly respected in Manjhol family.,

       Other brahmin families of Ladori are locally known as Beriwale, Ghaluinwale, Thappe, Vaid, Ambiwale, Phatiwale,  Dubey, Dakwale, Halwaii, Mukkimaar and Upadhaya (Padhe).

       Forefathers of Manjhol family lived in and around Pathankot in Kuthiali village since more than a couple of centuries ago.  My great great grandfather, Makhan Lal, along with his wife Kali and one of his cousin brothers moved to Village Suliali in the early part of 19th Century.  After having settled in Suliali, he got a job in the Royal Court of Nurpur Kingdom. 

       His son Hira Lal, my great grandfather also joined him in the the Palace as Head Cook in the Royal Kitchen.  Makhan Lal and  Hira Lal  both were allotted 100 Bighas of land in Village Suliali by the then Raja of Nurpur.  After the demise of Hira Lal, my great grandmother, Laxmi was left all alone.  She was terrorized and repeatedly thrashed by her near relatives in order to grab her landed property.  As a result, she was forcibly thrown out of the house along with her five years old son Mallhu.

       Laxmi, then went to her brother's house at Madanpur in search of a temporary shelter and lived there for quite some time.  One of her brothers lived in Kashi and taught in a Gurukul.  In due course of time, Luxmi came in contact with some kind hearted prominent women of Pathanias, who brought her to Ladori along with her son and offered a piece of land her a cottage at a place where present Manjhol House is situated.  By this time, Mallhu was 17 years lad who had a burning desire to learn Jyotish and Upadhya Krit.  He had in his mind his maternal uncle (Mama)who lived in Kashi and he always wanted to reach up to him.

       One fine morning, Mallhu suddenly disappeared from the village and somehow reached Kashi.  It is not known whether Mallhu could ever trace out his Mama in Kashi or not.  But for 20 years there was no trace of Mallhu and Laxmi had almost lost all hopes of seeing her son again. One day, it so happened, that Laxmi saw Mallhu in her dream who told his mother that he was in Kashi and was learning Karamkand, Jyotish and Upadhya Krit and would come back home soon. Next morning Luxmi set out for a long journey for an  unknown destination - Kashi, without having a slightest idea of the city,  to bring her son back home.

       On reaching Kashi, she stood tired at Ganga Ghat eagerly looking at each and everyone in utter madness who passed by her.  Suddenly, an impressive looking man wrapped in saffron  appeared before her as if from nowhere!  He asked the woman as to why she was standing there and to whom she was searching for?  Luxmi narrated the whole story in one breath.  The man told her that "Mai, come to the Ghat tomorrow morning and you shall perhaps meet your son".  The man disappeared.

       Next morning, hardly a minute had passed when a young man in his late thirties approached Luxmi and asked her ":Mai, why you are so depressed and shaken, why you are standing here and to whom are you looking for?  Luxmi abruptly cried and tears rolled down her sullen face. She told the man all about her missing son.  The stranger told Luxmi that her son was living with him in a Gurukul and  that she could come along with him and meet her son Mallhu, who by now was known as Pandit Mallhu Ram.  Jyotishacharya.  Luxmi brought her Mallhu back home who was warmly welcomed by the villagers.

       Shahpure Pathanias' donated a piece of land in the middle of Ladori Village where present Manjhol House is situated.  At the age of 39, Mallhu Ram was married to Bhatianwale's daughter Rukmani.  Pandit Mallhu Ram was widely known and respected for his goodness and command over jyotish, Upadhya Krit and Karamkand.  Mallhu Ram and Rukmani had a large family of five sons and five daughters including one adopted.

       Since there was no fixed and regular income except that was earned through Upadhya Krit and Dehra Pujan, their financial  condition was  miserably poor.  However, Pandit Mallhu Ram fought and took back his share of landed property at Suliali and family was brought up, educated and married off smoothly.  Manjhol Parivar was well settled and spread all around by the time my grand parents left for their heavenly abode one after the other!

                                               CHETU AND HIS NAG DEVTA

 Residents of village Ladori had hardly any source of entertainment in those old days except for occasional dramas and variety shows staged by the Ladori Dramatic Club and taking out colorful processions of deities on Holi or Diwali festivals, in locally made chariots driven by animals and palanquins carried by the volunteers of the Club.

       Annual ceremonial parades and sports events, organized by the then High School, Ladori on National Days used to be the main attraction and source of entertainment where people enjoyed the perfect show of the mastery over the sports events like Football, Volleyball and Kabaddi by our village heroes like Bakshish Singh, Rathwan Singh, Balwant Singh, Gorakh Nath and so on.  Wherever Ladori School Team went to participate in friendly tournaments, they created tehalka in the minds of the rival teams in the district.  Our school team brought laurels to the village and the school, many a times.

       Yearly customary melas and chhinjh in the village and the adjoining villages have had their own charm to attract more and more people to have fun and frolic and for shopping of variety of fruits and eatables and also local novelties.  Children were specially happy and enthusiastic during mela season as they were allowed to go away from home, in groups, in their newly made colorful attires and footwears.  While coming back home from the melas, every child, big or small, carried a number of articles like gangoju, colorful spectacles made of paper and rubber strap, whistles, yo yo, caps and hats, balls, other plastic sports items and also fruits and sweets.

       Seasonal village games like Attar-Pattar, Luka-Chhipi, Chitti-Tapu, Panj Gitra, Haal-Haal, Pithu, Loon-Loon, Gilli-Danda, Korda-Chapaki and other such local indoor/outdoor games were both enjoyable and exercise oriented and the kids enjoyed these games fully everyday until late evenings. Playing cards by children was, however, considered as bad as gambling.  But now, these old time games are the things of the past except Chitti-Tapu which seems to have taken its present form as Stapu which is still favorite amongst modern day kids in the small towns and the country side.

       Occasional visit by touring troupe from Rajasthan, entertained the residents of the area with the rare Putli Dance shows.  Chetu, the snake charmer, was a strong and sturdy built, six feet tall, muscular man of talkative and jolly nature.  His shining dark-brown complexion attracted people passing by him.  He used to wear Rajasthani type colorfully designed printed Safa which always remained tilted over his right ear.  Long tail of the Safa hanging downwards, on the back up to his waist, gave a majestic look. 

       Chetu used to wear second hand westerly designed surge coat with large flappy collars and with many pockets, in winters, colorful designer long kurta and chooridar during summer. Colorful dhoti up to knees matching with safa presented more attractive look. Chetu's jutti was usually made of pure leather and enriched with mustered oil for smoothness.  Its long nose strap turned around backwards.  Embedded with small white shells at the back of jutti's heals and capped heavy nails on the sole, jutti gave a graceful look and musical sound while stepping. 

       A small size flower like reddish round bud, made of wool strands, was tucked in the center of upper back side of pair of jutti, added glamour in Chetu's dress code.  His embroidered kurta was also unique in design and cut style.  A number of colorful stone bead malas of different shapes and sizes along with one Rudraksh one, impressed the onlookers.  A light weight silky floral yellow scarf tied around the neck looked so good.  Maharana Pratap style moustaches, reddish eyes with flowing out eyelashes under huge dense black eyebrows, while teeth and kum -kum tilak applied on the forehead, golden ear rings, three silver rings on left hand and a heavy silver anklet, gave an impression of Chetu like a great magician!

       To charm snakes, a beautifully designed, crafted and embedded with various types and shapes of colorful stones and  glittering glass pieces, Chetu's Been enthralled the gathering with its melodious tune, on which his cobra naag danced side by side.

       As per Chetu's version, he had a prize possession.  A naagmani kept safely and securely in a small handy brass box smeared in sindhoor.  Chetu would boast before gathering proudly about the characteristics, qualities and reputation of so called naagmani which sucks out the snake poison.  Actually, there is no such thing like naagmani.  Naagmani's immediate affects are generally told or are available in lok kathas or in fairy tales.

       Chetu is also a religious man and used to perform Naag Puja everyday morning before leaving for work.  Naag and all other kinds of snakes are considered sacred and worshiped in Hindu culture.  One cannot imagine Lord Shiva Temple without a naag as one cannot imagine Shiva Temple without Nandi.  Snakes are not our enemy but friends of human race. They are environment friendly and friends of farmers.  They never attack first. They do so only when disturbed or threatened.  Naag Panchami is naag puja day which is celebrated all over the country with great devotion.

       Chetu came forward every now and then to show up his cobra naag to the assembly of people, dancing to the tune of his been.  People admired Chetu's skills with which he handled the cobra with his been and stick.  While some threw coins to the cobra, others ran fast fetching some milk for the naag though it never drank their milk.  The show would last for an hour at the most.  Chetu, with his young assistant, would collect the coins spread around and put his snake back in the basket and is gone with his potli thrown over his shoulder, waiving his hand in a promise to come back again!

                                                  FESTIVITIES - LOHRI IN LADORI

       Indian culture is as old as more than 5000 years.  Among other rituals, some are full of colors while others full of lights and fasts.  Festival of fire, Lohri, is one among those festivals which is celebrated in North Indian states like Delhi, Himachal Pradesh, Haryana and Punjab in particular with great enthusiasm and fanfare where god of fire is worshiped.

       In my village Ladori, Lohri used to be celebrated with great pomp and show and in a manner so unique that you could not possibly have seen or heard of celebration of Lohri in such a way in any other parts of the country!

       This festival also relates to harvest and winter season. On Lohri day, soon after sun set, when night falls, people of all ages specially women and children start getting together at a central common place wearing colorful attire. Each household put their share of firewood at a given place.  The bulk of firewood  is arranged  in a pyramid shape.  The fire is then lit with great fanfare, rituals and prayer.  Folk songs are sung in reverence of god of fire.  Children start shouting with joy wearing garlands of dry fruits, making merry while bursting crackers. 

       Til, gur, moongfali, chirwa, ghachak have special significance on this festival which is first offered to the fire and distributed among all those present at the spot and also to the passers-by.  People continue singing, dancing and clapping till late night praying god of fire for their well being, good health, prosperity and happiness. Lohri is particularly treated as a special occasion for newly wedded girls and new borne babies.  Young boys and girls go door to door, in groups, singing and dancing asking for eatables and few coins!

       At Ladori, Lohri was used to be lit at two places - Hattian and Mandi every year as usual with great fanfare indeed. While it was a simple Lohri in Hattian, Pathania's youth was perhaps more clever and funny in declaring  theirs as Lohra!  They always wanted to get their so called Lohra married to Lohri in Hattian, though forcefully!

       Come Lohri festival, tempers soared high at both sides.  Exchange of  hot and spicy dialogues, betting and hollow challenges went on between the two rivals unabated until Lohri day. Despite persuasion and even threats by parents and elders, none would pay heed, instead tightened their belts for the final encounter!  On the day, when Lohri is lit up in the evening, women and children worshiped the fire, sang songs, danced with joy and distributed dry fruits among the gathering in Hattian and in the neighborhood and children busted crackers.

       Suddenly, a bunch of brats, quite obviously, from Mandi would emerge at the scene from just no where in the dark.  They looked visibly tense and angry.  Seeing all this, there would be a pin drop silence as everyone seemed frightened with the impending fear of all hell breaking loose any moment.  Within a blink of an eye, this unruly mob would involve in a hand-to-hand fight with whosoever came their way.  They would drag burning logs, twigs and whatever material they could lay their hand on in the meely and try to run back fast to Mandi. 

        There would be tough resistance by the gathering, but some of them would escape with the burning logs in the darkness.  They would then put such burning material into their Lohra with a sense of pride, satisfaction and winning while shouting at their pitch that they have accomplished the mission and brought home the bride! It was, however, not all smiles every time.  Many a time, with the toughest posture taken by the people in Hattian, Pathania's Lohra was left alone and Kunwara and its sponsors were left nursing their wounds for quite some time to come!

                                      TREE WORSHIP - A WAY OF LIFE IN LADORI

        Other than fruit crop, there was another unique advantage of mango gardens covering vast stretches of area that certainly help in keeping ecological and environmental balance of the region and thereby contributing their share in having timely and sufficient rains.  People also encouraged planting and nurturing various other indigenous fruit bearing trees and at the same time preserving other self shooting conventional wild trees which are a regular source of green fodder for domestic livestock and also for meeting urgent need of timber.  If trees are in plenty in the neighborhood everything we need in life would also be easily available at hand.

       Trees are indeed our true and living friends.  They also feel pain and anguish like us humans.  They do cry and shed tears when hurt..  They smile when we do.  They need our love.  Preserve and nurture them for generations to come.  They shower on us everything they possess.  You simply give them only one thing - protection!

       We can do without everything: but not a tree; let there be a tree in our life: erect and strong.  The opening line of a poem by Niren Chakravarti, a Bengali poet.  How true it rings!  Imagine an estate without a tree, and the picture is incomplete.  Even when a child starts making his first landscapes in crayons, he makes hills, the rising sun, a hut and a tree beside it. The neighborhood would indeed be desolate without the friendly trees which give shade, shelter and fresh air.

       In many ancient cultures, trees are held sacred.  It is as though the sanctity stems from their ever renewing force of life and growth.  But no where in the  world do trees receive the love as accorded to them in our country!  For more than a thousand years, tree worship is a part of Indian way of life.  Lord Shiva Himself is a tree trunk devoid of leaves and ber is sacred to Him.  Vishnu is said to manifest Himself in the Peepal.  Peepal is also known as the Bodi  Vriksha for under it Gautam Buddha attained enlightenment.  Krishna's favorite is, of course, the Kadamba where he played flute to Radha.

       There were select few old timers of brahmin community in Ladori who used to offer fresh holy water at the roots of the Peepal Tree after having taken bath early in the morning at Chikly Jabbar.  They would embrace the tree number of times while chanting hymns, offer flowers, tie raw cotton yarn around the stem of the tree, lit a jyoti along with scented dhoop and agarwatti in reverence of tree god, thereby creating sense of  very peaceful, pious, enchanting and godly ambience around every morning, be it winter or summer.  Some other trees like Vat Vriksha, Plash, Amla, Ber, legendary Kadamba and Kalaptaru are also worshiped in our country.

       Folklore celebrates Kalpavriksha, which fulfills the wishes of the devotees for, at its roots lie jewels and gold!  Trees are celebrated in the poetry of all cultures.  It is time to return to this close relationship with the trees and nurture them as they nurture us.

       Let there be a tree in every life, erect and strong!

                                                        MANDIR KALYANRAI

 Maharaja Jagat Singh of Nurpur Kingdom was better known, amongst other things, for his religious nature and love for building and patronizing temples in his kingdom.  Apart from Brij Raj Temple at Nurpur, one such temple in village Khajjan, Tehsil Nurpur, has an interesting tale to tell.

       It is said that an ashatdhatu black image of Kalyanrai (Bansiwale) was being carried in a palanquin from Rajasthan for placement in a newly built up temple at Taragarh in Chamba.  When the palanquin bearers reached village Khajjan, they suddenly felt that the palanquin became heavier and that they found themselves unable to hold it any longer.  Eventually, they had to shout for an additional support but in vain.  The palanquin had to be immediately lowered and put down on the ground which  could never be lifted again.  Yes, it was without any doubt that Kalyanrai had chosen His home at Khajjan.  Khajjan is situated about three kilometers down northeast of Nurpur-Khajjan-Hindora Gharat-Sadwan-Suliali road. On the orders of Maharaja Jagat Singh, who visited the place personally, a makeshift temple was erected nearby and the image of Kalyanrai placed in it.

       The land where the palanquin laid stuck belonged to a poor Khajuria brahmin family who were later made the custodian and Pujari of the temple by an order of Raj Darbar.  Though the temple was slowly improved in the following years by the Pujari, it could not be constructed pucca for many years as a result of demise of the Maharaja.

       One of the ministers of the then Maharaja of Chamba who belonged to Soga family of Nurpur, is said to have fallen in love with one of the princesses.  When Maharaja came to know about this, he became furious with anger because the Minister was not a rajput and belonged to bania community.  He was ordered to be executed before  dawn next morning.  The minister felt helpless as none could come to his rescue at the time of distress.  As he always used to pay his reverence at Kalyanrai Temple while enroute to and  from Nurpur, he remembered Kalyanrai as a last resort and prayed for his life.  He said, "If he escaped from the clutches of Maharaja of Chamba, he would construct pucca Kalyanrai Temple at Khajjan".  With the help of some of his well wishers inside the palace, he got few guards bribed who in turn, let the minister escape from the Karagaar.  The Minister then collected gold coins and jewels and was out of the boundaries of Chamba before dawn.

       On reaching home safe,after hiding for quite some time, the minister had the Kalyanrai Temple constructed at its present location and also gave two shops located in Nurpur bazar to the temple in order to have some source of income to the Pujari.

                                                             NAGNI MATA MELA

         Ladori remained gripped in festival fever during June to August when Nagni Mata Melas are held.  People from places as far as Chamba, Chowari and other villages of Bhatyat region of Himachal Pradesh,  also used to visit Nagni via Ladori regularly.

        In those days, it took two to three days' time to reach Nagni on  foot with halts at a number of places on the way.  During the mela season, hundreds of families consisting of both young and old, clad in their best and colorful regional and traditional attires, walked through 'Hattian'.  A lot many used to stay in the Dharamshala situated in the middle of Hattian for an overnight halt to overcome fatigue.  Shop keepers and vendors of Ladori, during the mela season had a busy schedule with soaring business.

        There used to be hustle and bustle in the village due to number of guests coming to the village during rainy season.  While some of them  came for enjoying trekking, sight seeing, making fun and frolic and for the purpose of excursion and picnic,  others came for paying obeisance at Nagni Mata Shrine on fulfillment of their wishes and yet there were still others who visited Nagni  with the intention of selling their wares and shopping for local novelties.

        Nagni has always been considered a sacred place as Nagni Goddess has blessed the people of the area with Her permanent abode here in a very beautiful downhill valley of flowers, fruits and springs surrounded by steep vertical heights, which is located on the Pathankot-Dharamsala highway near Bhadwar, about seven kilometers from historic town of Nurpur and at the similar distance from  Village Ladori via Bhadwar.

        Nagni shrine is famous and revered not only in the region but whole of Himachal Pradesh including North India.  It is believed that if a person bitten by a snake is brought to the Nagni shrine immediately, he would find himself fit and fine with the divine powers of Goddess within a weeks' time.  There has not so far any instance to mention where any death has occurred after the arrival of a patient at the Nagni Mata's Thaan!

        Besides kheel-vatashe, Karah Prashad (Sanctified Halwa) is distributed among the devotees and neighborhood, but unique and rare prashad of 'Mitti' is considered to be  more precious possession by all those who believe in the Goddess Nagni. It is believed that prashad of Mitti is meant for applying on the wound created  by a snake bite during intermediary period when the patient is being brought to Nagni Mata.

        There are altogether eight melas (Baar) at Nagni in the month of July-August, on each Saturday.  Hundreds of thousands of devotees from all over the country used to visit Nagni Mata throughout the year until recent past.

        Present day life style has, however, restricted people from  venturing out for events such as melas which were quite dear to everyone in their childhood!
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                                                          KUNJAR MAHADEV

        From the times immemorial, huge number of residents from My Village Ladori and the adjoining villages had deep faith and visited Kunjar Mahadev, a sacred place for Hindus situated atop a pyramid type peak of Hathi Dhar. Being situated amidst mountainous terrain and there being no motorable approach to this shrine, only a day's foot journey is undertaken by the devotees from Ladori side. Though, being a cumbersome and difficult up, downhill and sideways walk throughout journey, devotees do not feel much fatigue and tiredness and complete the journey without any difficulty.  Now, at present, I doubt if anybody from the village has ever visited the shrine in the recent past.  However, steep and strenuous climb right up to the shrine,  does not deter the old time devoted pilgrims from visiting Kunjar Mahadev every alternative year.

        As legend has it, once upon a time, a spiritual old man of Gaddi clan happened to  reach, though  accidentally, at night fall along with the sheep herd,  at an open and plain oval shaped open space, atop one of the unknown peaks of Hathi Dhar, a branch of Dhauladhar Mountain Ranges, in Himachal Pradesh. and had to stay there overnight.  The sky was overcast and prickly sharp cold winds were blowing with intermittent showers. Somehow the Gaddi Mittar passed the night in a dilapidated shelter there along with his loyal dog.

       While leaving next morning, the  Gaddi Mittar wanted to sharpen his sickle on a stone lying nearby.  He took out his sickle from the bag and went near the  partly buried stone.  As soon as he rubbed his sickle on the stone once or twice, he saw to his surprise, that some drops of blood had emerged out from  the stone!  Since Gaddi was a  religious man, he lost no time in understanding as to what might  have had happened. He stood up erect, folded his hands,  looked up towards the sky and shouted humbly in reverence and prayed God.  He said "If You live here, You have to prove it".  The man then walked around and collected some dry grass and twigs scattered there, heaped  near the well and lit a fire there, prepared a thick and big corn roti and buried it in the ashes.  He then stood up looking towards the sky and shouted again as if telling the God that he was leaving for home along with his sheep and would return again next summer and then he would like to eat this roti.  Saying this, he set out for his onward journey, followed by the sheep and  obedient dog!

        Next summer, when the pious Gaddi Mittar came back along with his other family members after six months, he found to his pleasant surprise that the roti was freshly baked and was sizzling hot and smoky and the  remnants of fire was still alive and the ash very hot!  Gaddi Mittar felt enchanted and enlightened! He then sat on his knees with hands folded and prayed the Almighty in reverence and asked his family members to carry on to their further journey and leave him alone as he would stay here for ever and worship Shivji and would leave this materialistic world for ever as he had already been blessed by the Almighty by His Divya Darshan! However, his loyal dog was reluctant to leave his master's company!

        As legend goes, it is believed that Shivji Maharaj is in sleeping posture. His Head is resting at Manimahesh, while His Charan (feet) are stretched up to 'Kunjar', an elephant type look-alike branch hillock of Hathi Dhar!

        Quite some time later, Maharaja Jagat Singh of Nurpur Kingdom paid a visit to Kunjar Mahadev and worshiped Lord Shiva.  He also got a pucca well constructed approximately 40 feet deep, in the center of the limited mela ground  with its bottom covered with thick copper sheets to enable the falling rain water to accumulate in the well for  two years and use by the devotees for holy bath on mela day.

        Ever since, devotees started thronging the place which later turned out to be a worship ritual where a mela is organized after every two years, in the month of August where hundreds of pilgrims, petty businessmen, small time hoteliers, shop keepers,  magicians and tea vendors start pitching their tents well in advance of mela day.  This mela is held during night hours and groups of devotees sing and dance whole night in praise of devon ke dev Mahadev. Rain and wind storm never miss the occasion.  People shiver with cold and huddle together under leaking and fluttering tents with wet clothes and tumblers of hot tea in their hands.  They. somehow pass the night until 4 O" Clock next morning when holy bath from the rain water collected in the well starts.  After holy bath, pilgrims start their climb down to their homes with a sense of satisfaction!

                       REMINISCENCE OF RELIGIOUS RITUALS

       The residents of the village are laborious, hardworking, co-operative, helpful and of course, religious and shy in nature.  Regular bhajan-kirtan, pooja-path,dan-punya, fasting on pious days indicate their deep routed belief in gods.  Present day celebration of Maha Shivratri Mela used to be the biggest annual worship ritual of the village.

       The Mandir is situated on the bank of Chikly Jabbar amidst lush green cluster of wild bushes, Simble, Amla, Reetha, Saru, Bamboo and different types of  fruit bearing trees.  This Mandir was constructed in a phased manner by Late Shri Shiva Nand Ji Maharaj, a sadhu baba of sturdy built, who belonged to Udasi Panth of sadhus.

       The legend has it that Shiva Nand Ji Maharaj happened to pass through this place while on a journey to an unidentified and indefinite destination.  Some say that he was so impressed by the beauty, solitude and environs around, that he decided to break his onward journey for some time. One fine day, to his pleasant surprise, he discovered the presence of several miniature natural shivlingams taking shape in a small cave, covered  by the wild foliage.

        He was still more impressed and bent down on his knees.  This led him to think seriously to stay on and construct a makeshift temple until the present Trilokinath Temple was finally constructed by him with the help of locals, a century ago.  Settings of fountains, water channels and the storage tanks, indoor baths, finely laid out floors with colourful and designer ceramic and sang-e-mar mar tiles embedded with silver coins, construction of geometrical domes plastered white with home  made chuna mixtures prepared under the direct supervision of Baba, strongly support the version of some of the elders that Baba was an Ex-Civil Engineer by profession and also a renowned homeopath.  Colourful images of gods, birds and depiction of salokas and hymns from Holy Gita and Vedas in the interiors of domes and walls of the temple was definitely a work of excellence!

       The Baba was so popular and famous among the people of the area, not to talk of elders alone, that he even called many children by their first name.  He developed and nurtured the mandir complex so well that people, animals and birds alike were attracted to it for all these years.

       A large quantity of pure, rich golden honey used to be harvested in the mandir gardens.  Milk was available aplenty as Mandir Gaushala had a number of cows.  Rooms were available for overnight stay of visitors and food was served at no cost.

       It was used to be breathtaking nazaara when Amaltash, Yellow Rose Gul Mohar, Marigold, Bougainvillea, Yellow Rose and Lotus were used to be in full bloom. Parrots on fruit tree tops, bats hanging upside down on Peepal tree and bunch of ducklings quacking around in the complex, chirping sound of different species of birds gave an impression of a mini bird sanctuary.  Peacocks used to roam about freely in the complex without any fear while pairs of squirrels chasing one another on the floors of temple court yard was a source of fun for the tiny-tots.

       Students could be seen studying in this peaceful and undisturbed environment.  Apart from local Aloo Bukhara, Kela, Desi mangoes, Leechi, Papaya, Orange, Lemon, Anjheer, Shehtoot, Badam, Phakure, Lugat, Peaches, Ber, special Bambai Amb, Langra Amb, Allahabadi Seedless Amrood, Afgani Angoor, and Kandhari Anaar were some of the mouthwatering fruits available seasonally in the mandir orchards.

       Prayer bells and sound of conch in the wee hours and evenings where lots of devotees, young and old, used to take part in mass prayers reminded the people constantly of the omnipresence of the Almighty!  Jagran on the previous night of the mela was being attended by all including women and children in their best and colorful attire.  Devotees, folk singers, dancers and musicians from far and wide were being invited well in advance to perform at the night of Jagran of the year.  They sang bhajans and classical songs praising God at their best supported by various kinds of musical instruments like Tabla, Harmonium, Mridang, Ghatak, Dholak, Taashe and Chimta by reputed musicians and dancers who kept the people awake and spellbound until early morning.

       Community Langar (Jag) on the following day was used to  be a big event involving lots of efforts by one and all for days together.  People from all walks of life and hailing from far-flung areas who had deep faith in Baba, took collective responsibility and managed this great feast of Dal-Bhat-Mahni right from dawn to dusk.  For preparation of food on such a large scale where countless and unexpected number of people would eat from mid day till late evening, it required systematic planning and meticulous arrangements at each stage by an appointed committee of prominent residents.

       At lease three well known and expert Rasoias (Cooks) along with some trained helpers were required to be booked in advance for preparation of Rasoi.  As it being customary in those days, Chief Rasoia would draw a line of flour around the area of improvised shed meant for preparation of food so that no one could trespass the area and spoil its sanctity.

       Various types of utensils and pots, big and small, including about thirty to forty deghs (Baltohis), Karatas and required number of other necessary utility items needed for cooking rice, Dal, curry, Mahani and Madhra, number of buckets, karchhies, glasses, tumblers and drums for storage of drinking water which were catered to by the Sabhas of the village and also by the individual household.

       Rations and condiments were used to be cleaned and sifted manually by volunteer ladies few days earlier and kept ready for use.  Provision of large quantities of Pattals and Donas made of green and big sized double flapped leaves of a creeper plant called Taur  stocking of dry firewood was to be completed well before a week from the D Day to avoid last minute Afra-Tafri

       Being a community affair, number of residents, guests and school children offered themselves for voluntary help for serving food and oversee devotees/visitors coming in and going out of the mandir complex on Jag Day.  Inspite of great rush, no body returned hungry and unserved and still large quantities of cooked food was left unconsumed.  This was believed to be the Almighty's miracle!

       The earlier pomp, show and glitter of this Shiva Temple has, however, been faded away due to land slide of huge magnitude from the over-hanging hillock that washed away a major portion of the temple a few years back.  However, joint efforts by the residents of Ladori, particularly by writer's brother, Pushkar Raj Sharma (Raju Bhai), Karam Chand Sharma, Chaman Lal Sharma, Jagdish Chand Sharma, Baldev Singh Pathania, Gulshan Pathania and others, made to reconstruct the damaged portions as well as to make new additions in the temple, in order to protect the village heritage and to restore its past look and grandeur, are appreciable.

       Since the cave of natural miniature shivlingams has completely been washed away and destroyed in the avalanche, the original charm and attraction of Trilokinath Temple could not be restored.  However, all out efforts are being made to do the needful by having 'Shiv Parivar' installed at a prominent place in the temple complex.

       A small additional effort in the betterment of the temple made by writer's brother Rakesh Sharma lately, calls for clapping and be taken as a beginning!



       

                               SOCIAL AND CULTURAL NETWORK OF LADORI

       Par upkaar Fund constituted and run by Pathanias in Mandi and Brahaman Sabha run by Brahmans and others at Hattian, are two oldest social institutions in the village.  These sabhas and newly formed Ladori Mehila Mandal have had been catering to the needs of the residents for big and small utensils, shamianas, durries, mats and voluntary help at the time of various social, religious and cultural community functions like melas, wrestling (Chinjh), poojas, receptions and welcome programs of local  visiting political and religious leaders and celebration of Republic and Independence days at Ladori Secondary School grounds, and also at the time of individual social functions, especially marriages of children and last but not the least, at the time of performing functions on the last rites!

       Besides, these three institutions, New Vishnu Dramatic Club of Ladori has all along been a source of entertainment for the local people of the area in general and for the Ladori residents in particular for the last 80 years.  The Club has till now, staged number of dramas and variety shows in the village itself including other adjoining and far flung villages during the past 80 years.  Staging of Ramlila for the last 50 years regularly, boasts of Club's efforts to remain alive, active and entertain local folks for the last quarter of a century and help, to a great extent, in keeping religious and cultural consciousness open till date.

       S/Shri Gopal Singh Pathania (Tamba), Master Gurcharan Singh of Chouki, Master Charan Singh, Shadi Lal, Kaka Ram, Jaisi Ram, Mangal Singh, Karam Chand, Jagdish Chand, Lajpat Rai, Ram Prasad Aslia, Kishan Chand, Kishan Dutt, Gian Chand, Hem Raj, Ved Prakash, Khushi Ram, Brahm Dass, Ramesh Chand, Hans Raj, Paras Ram, Darshan Singh, Malhu Ram, Sukh Chain, Daljit, Mangat Ram, Ashok Kumar, Sashi Pal, Prem Chand,, Hans Raj 'Suresh', to name a few, were some of the founding, active, creative and life members of the Club.

       The life long Director, Actor and Singer, Hans Raj 'Suresh' was reluctant to retire though he had gone beyond the age to play 'Ram' and was leading a life of loneliness, poverty and oblivion! Being the custodian of the Club's paraphernalia, however, his efforts at that stage to motivate and bring out younger and new talent from amongst the village youth were appreciable.

     

 
       The writer has had also been closely associated with the dramatic club since childhood and played  number of lead roles in various dramas and variety shows, including that of 'Laxman' for three consecutive years from 1976 to 1978 and the unforgettable performance, as they say, was well appreciated,  applauded and remembered by one and all for years!  When under four, the club chose the 'baby writer' and baby Jagdish, each year, for an exhibition, carrying around the village in a palanquin, in the late evenings during holi festivities, in the make-over of 'Bal-Gopal,' holding brass images of Krishan-Balram enthroned in a small simple room, called Gosain Mandir, followed by a great congregation of men, women and children in their attires, drenched in  multicolor-water and spray of multicolor gulaal.

However,  the club is now at the verge of thinning out as there seems no qualitative, experienced, mature and all time available cultural personality  in the village!

                                              KASHYAPS (JHEER) OF LADORI

          Kashyaps of Ladori who believed to have come from Chamba area, Himachal Pradesh, has always been laborious, hardworking and tough community who have also contributed their best in building and development of Ladori in terms of various services rendered towards their own and other communities of the  village.  Their first generation was almost illiterate with the exception that few of them could read or write Urdu or Taakri.  Apart from odd petty jobs, masonry, carpentry, blacksmith and catching fish, their main occupation had been to run Gharat (Atta Chakki).  There were number of gharats situated along Jabbar Khad in an area spread up to Telian-da-Pind on one side and Chakki River, downhill Mallkuwal, on the other.

        To name a few gharats would be interesting e.g. Dassuen-da-Gharat, Trilokinathan-da-Ghartat, Ghaluin-da-Gharat, Karkingere-da-Gharat, Hindore-da-Gharat, Tina-da-Gharat, Chakki-da-Ghatrat etc. etc.  These were generally makeshift shelters with thatched roof which used to be very cozy and cool from within. An improvised temporary 'bund' was used to be erected at an appropriate narrow point, upstream and excess water was thus diverted through a drain leading to the gharat.  At the finishing point, the water was allowed to fall down through a wooden channel from a measured height and gushing down underneath the GARD that rotated the stone wheel up inside the gharat.  These gharats functioned round the clock, sometimes for weeks, until otherwise not needed to.  Tik-tik musical sound made by the ghori while in contact with moving upper stone wheel made the lone attendant go to deep slumber as and when required.

        When the gharat is not functioning or needed to be stopped, the water was diverted to the rivulet through another outlet provided a little short of the main inlet. Each gharat was run by a group of two or three families on mutually agreed terms and conditions.  Atta of a gharat was considered healthy, tasty, aromatic and nutritious.  There is a saying "Gharat da atta, Naun da pani, Nau par Nau rahe jawani.

        Waterwheels or gharats have ground wheat since 7th Centaury, but are now dying a slow death.  Traditional watermills or gharats, as they are called in the hilly region of Himachal Pradesh, were found in nearly every village.  Today these mechanisms that use running water to grind wheat, rice and maize and also occasionally to extract oil, have now been replaced by electricity run mills.".
Until few years ago, most villages in Kangra and other districts of Himachal Pradesh boasted of 3 to 4 gharats, many on the same stream.  Now, it is the older generation who speak about them. The younger generation lot, do not even recall seeing any!

        The flour from the gharat is perceived to be healthier as the grinding is both slow and gradual. As a result of lack of water where river water is channeled by 'hydro power' that causes disruption, leaves the gharats with fewer takers every year.  Living proof of how energy can be harnessed without environmental degradation, these gharats need a new lease of life!.

        Gorkhu, Gosanta and Churo Ram of this community were known for their expertise in running the gharat at Ladori.  Not too long ago, when the spread of power chakkies reached Ladori and adjoining villages, these gharats had to be abandoned being uneconomical as people were attracted to power chakkies being situated at their door steps.

        Shri Yakko Ram, who had largest joint family, was considered wise and grand old man of the community who lived up to the ripe age of 110 years.  He was most sought after a person in decision making meetings (Panchies).

        Fikko, a tall, humble, soft spoken lady always clad in chooridars was a busy Dai Maa.  She was proud to have to her credit, the privilege of handling numerous births in the village including the writer's.  Everyone fondly called her Amma.

        Second and third generation of the community is, however, well informed and educated.  Almost every family has one or more members in service.  Recently acquired OBC status, has indeed, thrown open more opportunities for them.  Living standard of the community has apparently improved as compared to the recent past. Sub Maj & Hony. Capt. Gian Chand is proud to be a member of the community which is constantly marching ahead!

        

                                                               SALLO-DI-HATTI

         'Hatti' bole toh Dukaan. Yahan ek saath bahut saari dukaan toh usko bolte 'Hattian', the Market.   'Hattian', the market of Ladori, was considered to be a central visiting place by all, especially by both young and old males.  Some of them were so addicted to visit Hattian, that their food would not digest unless they visited the place more than once a day. 

        Evenings had its own charm at Hattian when almost all the elderly and retired people and lot of children would converge in front of Padhian-di-Hatti everyday where village school headmaster would read out daily Urdu newspaper to the gathering.  Everyone present listened patiently, discussed and analyzed day's news before dispersal. Two-three bunches of card playing people at the same place sitting under a huge Burr Tree nearby, however, never bothered about what was going on around the world!

        Prior to the arrival of dakia from Nurpur GPO, few elderly mians  could be seen enjoying sanjha hukka with Pandit Devi Chandji Padha at his shop.  This hukka had its own reputation.  It had two pipes separately for mians and brahmins.  It had always been a meaningful gathering and youngsters like me, learned many good things from those good oldies.

        There was another shop in Hattian which was famous for its pedas and pakodas and was known as Sallo-di-Hatti.  Shri Saligram used to make tasty and sizzling hot pakodas  with green chatni every evening, aroma of which travelled each nook and corner of adjoining households.

        Saligram's elder son Brahmo, who always asked his pony to say 'Ram-Ram', before work, could never solve his father's puzzle of 'Bichli-Gall'.  Bichli-Gall was Saligram's pet dictum which he often used when he was in confrontation with his sons on trivial matters.

        Mangal Dass, popularly known as 'Meento' is younger to Brahmo.  He is a short statured, intelligent and shrewd type of a person who worked in revenue department and permanently settled at Dharamsala before his retirement.

        Third son Krishan, derived  his pet name as 'Peda' from the famous sweet of shop.  Yoginder, the youngest lad could not resist himself coming to the shop at odd hours.  Saligram would pick up a stick (shimk) and run after Yoginder in an effort to send him back home.  He would aim the stick and say, 'Aya Trangad, Mur Pichhe' and Yoginder would abruptly cry and shout, 'Chande Chacha Mat Banda'.

        Saligram's close-to-heart-wish of having two kilograms (Batti) currency notes, from out of the blue, was, however, never got fulfilled in his life time!

        

       

                                               IN DEFENCE OF THE COUNTRY

        My village is not behind when the question of the country's defense comes in.  Almost each and every family in the village is proud to have had its one or more members serving in armed forces/para military forces.  Ladori is also proud to have produced number of defense officers right up to the ranks of Major General, Air Vice Marshall and Additional Director General, Indian Coast Guards. 

        Late Lt Col Kaman Singh Pathania, MVC, was born on 23 April 1917 to Dafedar Vijay Singh Pathania, a Dogra Rajput from Village Ladori. Young Kaman Singh continued the family tradition and joined Indin Army as a Sowar in Hodson's Horse in April 1953. Soon he was selected for IMA, Dehradun. Kaman Singh was sent to IMA Dehradun in July 1939 for military training. He was commissioned  in the army in 1940 and was  posted to 5th Dogra Regiment. In October 1947, the war broke out and Major Kaman Singh was transferred to 3rd Gharwal Rifles. In 1948, he took over the command of 3 Royal Garhwal Rifles in Uri Sector. 

       The 3rd Battalion, under the leadership of Lt Col Kaman Singh participated in 1947-48 operations and won the battle honor 'Tithwal'. From Aug 1949 to Aug 1950, he was sent to Infantry School Mhow as Instructor Class A. In early 1950s, when militancy in Nagaland started to grow, Kaman Singh was hand picked to command 6 Kumaon at the age of 33.  In this tenure, 6 Kumaon had officers like HS Virk, DSO, MVC and 2/Lt Shaitan Singh, later PVC served under him.

      At the age of 39 he had already commanded 3 different units. On 15 July 1956, during a visit to a high altitude post he had tea on his way and just in a few minutes he collapsed and sacrificed his life for  the honor of the country at the young age of 39 years. The name of Lt Col Kaman Singh, MVC lives on in the form of KAMAN AMAN SETU, the crossing point opened up between J&K and POK. 

Lt Col Kaman Singh was married to Mrs. Dayawanti who passed away on 21 Sep 2020 at the ripe age of 96 years. The couple is blessed with three sons and one daughter named Lt Col NS Pathania, Lt Col DS Pathania, Mr. Kamaljit Singh Pathania and Mrs. Sarita Rana.

      Lt Col Kaman Singh left a great legacy behind . He will be remembered as one of the finest commanding officers of the Indian Army.

         Maj Gen Jatinder Singh Pathania,SM,  Col Narinder Singh Pathania, Col Daljit Singh Pathania, SSP Himachal Police Ramesh Singh Pathania, Lt Col Abhimanyu Singh Pathania, Wing Commander Jagjit Singh Pathania, Sqn Ldr Jaswant Singh Pathania, Wing Commander  Manmohan Singh Pathania, Lt Col RS Pathania S/O Col Kahan Singh Pathania, Col Daljit Singh Pathania, Lt Col RS Pathania S/O Col Kahan Singh Pathania, Maj Jagnandan Singh Pathania Capt Nasib Singh Pathania, Major Puran Singh Pathania, Major Mehar Singh Pathania are also not yet forgotten and will be remembered for long.  Brig Kuldip Singh Pathania, SM, Col Rameshwar Singh Pathania, Col Kahan Singh Pathania, SM, Col Sunit Singh Pathania, Lt Col Kuldip Singh Pathania, Lt Col Shivani Pathania and Major Bishamber Singh Pathania, Maj Akshay Pathania, Maj Akash Pathania,  have also made the village proud.

        Air Vice Marshall Jagnandan Singh Pathania deserves special mention as he brought glory to the country and made his village feel proud.  In the Pakistani misadventure in Kargil, our Air Force achieved successes with pin point precision under the able command of Air Vice Marshall Jagnandan Singh Pathania who was awarded Param Vishist Sewa Medal (PVSM) for his excellent maneuvers.

        Ladori is proud of Major General R.S. Pathania who is a serving soldier of Ladori, Village Ladori is also proud to have VS Pathania, appointed as an Additional Director General of Indian Coast Guards recently.  Ladori is again proud to have produced freedom fighters and budding young politicians.  Shri Rakesh Pathania, son of late Col Kahan Singh Pathania, is presently a Cabinet Minister for Sports, Forest and Youth Affairs, in Himachal Pradesh  Government. Mahesh Pathania, Joint Director Information and Public Relations have also upheld the name our Village Ladori!

                                                          CHAMPA-KE-PHOOL

         A rendezvous in the middle of the village called Baradari where village people, young and old, especially,  elders used to meet, sit, play cards and gossip till late nights during winters, discussing important matters of common interest and for the betterment of the village as well as finding final solutions to their own pinching domestic problems. The place in question, witnessed numerous dramas/variety shows staged by the village drama club.  Rasleelas, bhagats and jagrataas by touring troupes, the narration of great Epics,  Ramayan  and Mahabharat Kathas by visiting renowned katha vachaks from other parts of the country, for months together, is a reminiscent of the past hustle-bustle in the village.

        Village Ladori is a valley of flowers, both domestic and wild. Flowers like Haar-Shringaar, different colors and sizes of Genda (marigold), moti, different varieties and colors of roses, sada-bahaar, chameli, raat rani, basanti yellow flowers are found in every household. In spring season, the village is in full bloom of wild flowers. Each and every house hold in the village grow rare varieties of flowers and ornamental bushes hanging around their houses. 

 Rarest of the rare Champa  Flower Tree, sapling of which, is said to have had been brought to Ladori, carried by hand, from Chamba region of the then Himachal Pradesh, by the then Zaildar family of Ladori, which is still standing huge, tall and upright, in front of, now dilapidated baradari building, challenging as if holding high the past  glory of the village, and at the same time, spreading all around, the typical maddening fragrance of golden-yellow Champa-Ke-Phool and of course, standing like a lone witness of those good old days and cultural richness of the village.

        Ladori is mainly inhabited by Pathania rajputs consisting of Dangoos, Lehrawale, Naaleparwale, Behrewale, Shahpurie, Wazir, Bagewale etc. majority of whom belong to service class.  Living in a cluster of houses touching lehra and choti dhaar in the northeast up to naalepaar.

        Brahmins of different gotras consisting of manjhol, upadhye, mukkimaar, beriwale, ghaluinwale, daakwale, bhatianwale, halwaii, dube etc. in the north side and few dalit families adjoining upla maira while kashyaps (jheer) are sandwitched in the middle.

        A pucci main street connecting both ends of the village runs through the village via hattian, ghare-da-amb, mandi and lehra.  People of different castes live together in complete peace and harmony in this pollution free environment and slowly waking up Himachali village. So far as crimes are concerned, the rate is negligible not only in and around the village, but in the entire area in general.

        Some mischievous elements might have had committed crimes of petty nature in the past but these do not warrant mention.  However, steadily growing hatred and intolerance is being realized every now and then, but hating people is like burning down your own house to get rid of a rat and thereby giving heat to already existing petty problems.

        If I may give a piece of advice.......grow more respect and tolerance for each other!  Elders will also have to be more careful to arrest such a tendency so that even minor incidents of any nature do not recur.